Venturing Through Kumase - Reflection from Twi Immersion Program
By Jeanelle Nana Ama Acheampong, Undergraduate Student
Howard University Akan Twi Language & Cultural Immersion in Ghana (HUATG) - Summer 2025
Our journey from Accra—the capital of Ghana—to Kumase took about four hours. Being in Kumase felt like a completely different world from Accra. Looking out of the van window, I saw more greenery in those few hours than I had during our entire stay in Accra. We arrived at our hotel, Lancaster Hotel, in the evening. It was dark, but the first thing I noticed about the building was the large Adinkra symbol in the middle; I later learned that it was the Akofena, meaning “sword of war,” which represents courage and heroism. The interior of the hotel was both modern and Afrocentric, with African art on almost every wall I passed.
During our first day in Kumase, we visited the Manhyia Palace Museum and the Kumase Cultural Center, where we were immersed in the Asante kingdom’s history and culture. We learned about the Asante kings (called Asantehene) of the past and present, and how they fought to preserve their culture against colonial rule. One particular story that stood out to me was that of Queen Mother Yaa Asantewaa and her role during the War of the Golden Stool. She refused to give up the Golden Stool (a symbol of power for the Asante people) to the British, instead leading her people in a war against the British and ultimately deceiving them with a fake stool. Although she ended up being captured by the British and exiled to the Seychelles until her death, Yaa Asantewaa’s story stood out to me because of her bravery and willingness to stand up against colonialism to protect her culture. However, it was disheartening to learn that the beautiful Asante regalia on display in the museum was on “loan” from the British Museum. I don’t understand how you can steal something from another country, have it on display in your museums, then decades later turn around and say you’re going to “loan” it back to them.
The next day, we visited the Bonwire Kente Weaving Village—the home of the Asante’s colorful cloth. I’m very familiar with kente cloth; it’s probably the most recognizable Ghanaian textile, but I never stopped to think about how it is made. I don’t know—I guess I just assumed that it was manufactured by machines like most textiles today. Kente is woven by hand on a loom with multiple pieces of thread. It is hard to explain with words because of how intricate the process is. Getting to see firsthand the pure skill and craftsmanship that goes into weaving a strip of kente made me even more appreciative of the cloth. I was even able to try using the loom myself, and although it was a bit challenging at first, it was fun. There was also a museum where we learned the history of kente and how it is used to convey many different things. I like how the traditional method of making kente is still being used and passed on through generations.
The following day was our last day in Kumase, and we visited Lake Bosomtwe. I had never heard of this lake, but after reading about its history and the goddess associated with the lake, Asase Ya, I was excited to see it. The view of the lake was beautiful, and being there felt very calming. I’m typically not around large bodies of water because I can’t swim—but the water at the lake was still, so I decided to get in. I spent my time picking up pretty rocks I found in the water. I was a bit worried about taking the rocks from the lake, seeing as though it is a sacred lake, but I was told by my professor that “water is forgiving,” so I still have them with me now. We also took a boat ride farther into the lake, where we learned more about the history of the lake and some of the villages nearby. I also tried coconut water for the second time in my life; I still don’t like it. Overall, the visit to Lake Bosomtwe made me more appreciative of the earth; I don’t think I’ve ever just sat with nature before, so being at the lake made me realize that I need to go outside more and experience the true beauty of nature (I also need to learn how to swim so I can be around water freely).
Being in Kumase was an amazing experience where I not only learned about culture but also gained a newfound appreciation for the world around me. All in all, I am very grateful that I had the opportunity to participate in the Howard University Ghana Study Abroad program, and I will cherish all the memories I made for the rest of my life.
